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“You can find her influence in the cuisine of Thomas Keller and Daniel Patterson and in the food Alice Waters has overseen on the menu at Chez Panisse for four decades,” wrote Birdsall in the article published in Spring 2014 by Lucky Peach Takes Enjoyment seriously, as an end in itself, as a claim of politics or as a human birthright, as a product of culture – this is the legacy of gay food authors who have shaped modern American food. “
But their influence was shrouded in a common secret: their sexuality. When the trio became famous in the 1940s and 50s, homosexuality was despised and even criminalized. Even as Beard became a celebrity for his cookbooks, his sexuality was the worst kept secret in food circles and a mystery to those outside of it.
Birdsall’s book brings this secret to light, and with it all of the darker secrets Beard kept, including allegations of sexual abuse and exploitation involving younger men.
“James Beard had many secrets about his sexuality and his sexual abuse was one of those secrets,” Birdsall said. “It’s part of a broader culture of the mysteries of food and almost all of American life.”
Speaking to Allen on Wednesday is one of only a handful of events Birdsall takes to promote the book. All other events are suspended due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
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